Producers

Feather & Bone, restaurant quality produce home delivers

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:19 by Unknown user

There is a growing number of discerning food shoppers in and around Sydney. People who love to eat well and are mindful of sustainable farming.

They want premium quality produce with flavour but not at the expense of future generations. They want to know where their food comes from and they make responsible choices.

For these and many other foodies, it was welcome news that Grant Gillard at Feather & Bonewas to start home deliveries of the same quality lamb, beef, pork, foul and eggs that they supply to many of Sydney’s best restaurants.

The idea of sourcing premium sustainable produce began when Grant was listening to a Radio National article on Southdown Lamb. He learnt that these animals were prized for their fine-textured and sweet meat, and that although being bred in NZ, they were not readily available in Australia.

It also occurred to Grant that like wine, beef and oysters, lamb is often classified by their breed and where it is raised, but not here in Australia. The Australian lamb market is dictated by the wool industry. Which explains why we all grew up on the slightly less tender Merino-cross lamb chop.

Grant located a breeder of the rare Southdown Lamb in the Bathurst region, and shortly afterwards found himself with three whole carcasses, which he supplied to a few Sydney restaurants.  “One thing led to another”, he teamed up with a conventional butcher who, he suspects, took pity on him, leased him some space and also tutored him in the art of butchering.

More chefs and producers became interested and the business naturally grew. Feather & Bonebegan regularly supplying more of Sydney’s best restaurants amongst others these include Sean’s Panaroma, Longrain, Quay, Rockpool, Bei Amici, Bodega, Red Lantern and Bistro Ortolan.

With a great knowledge in wine, Grant approached his stable of suppliers in much the same way a wine portfolio is devised. They visit each and every producer for first hand experience and to ensure that the farming practices are sustainable and that the product is of premium quality and flavour. They only buy whole animals direct from the farmers and their impressive list of suppliers all practice humane farming and butchering methods. Many of them also promote biodiversity in growing rare breeds.

Organic beef found in the larger supermarkets may well be from some of the same farms but because of different handling, we end up with a very different product. Australian supermarket meat is generally butchered while still “hot” and rather than being aged, it is plastic packed before leaving the abattoir.

Being a boutique specialist providore, Feather & Bone can ensure the treatment of each animal from where it was raised, what it was fed, through to slaughter and ageing, which is typically up to six weeks for premium grass fed wagyu beef. Hanging beef for this length of time blends freshness with an added character of age.

Feather & Bone were recently awarded Outstanding Supplier of the Year, 2010 Produce Awards run by ABC Delicious Magazine.

The details….. Beef, lamb, goat, poultry, bone stocks, butters, parfait, sausages and other goodies. Availability depends on supplies.

Visit their website for further details and to sign up for the weekly newsletter and menu atwww.featherandbone.com.au

Order by 5:00pm Wednesday Deliveries on Thursday and Friday or collect from their Rozelle premises

Quick Tip…. you can tell the diet of the animal from the colour of the fat. Grass feeding results in a yellow fat richer in Omega 3’s, while grain fed animals have an Omega 6 dominant white fat.

42 Bannerman’s Farmers’ Market

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:18 by Unknown user

Slow Food Sydney member Sam Mammoliti has been using Slow Food principles of good, clean and fair in his restaurant since it opened. 42 Bannerman’s philosophy is driven by Sam’s passion to support local farmers in a tangible way and make the restaurant a showcase of the best of our region. Sam is always looking for ways to promote local and seasonal foods, so his decision to organise a farmers’ market at his restaurant in Glenhaven was hardly a surprise. Glenhaven’s location on the edge of Sydney suburbia, with farms not too far away (but fast-disappearing) and his Slow Food principles and you know you’re going to get a farmers’ market with integrity.

The first, held on the grounds of 42 Bannerman on Sunday 1st August, was a great example of local and seasonal foods sold direct by the growers. Unfortunately rare in Sydney, this farmers’ market was small, simple and honest. It drew a great crowd for its half dozen or so stalls, evidence of Sam’s reputation. There were fresh Sydney potatoes in many varieties, grown by Matt Simmons from Swallow Rock Organics, Grima Farms fresh vegetables, Alf and Lee Sorbello’s heirloom tomatoes and eggplants grown undercover at Middle Dural (in winter!), Willowbrae goat cheeses sold by cheesemaker Karen Borg and local citrus from Annito and Marianne Scaramuzza at Kenthurst.

While the market went on in the grounds, kids were being given hands-on food lessons inside, shown how to create a ravioli of Sicilian pesto: sundried tomatoes with pistachios, pine nuts and raisins. There was live music, wine tasting and a great atmosphere. Winter sunshine added to a gorgeous day.

You could do a lot worse than creating a meal with the ingredients on offer by the farmers, which is what Sam did afterwards in a lunch to celebrate the food and thank the growers for their hard work. It was a sold-out affair and if you were amongst the fortunate one hundred and twenty who sat down to eat, you savoured a long, slow meal that embodied the Italian spirit of abbondanza. In addition to his potatoes, Matt Simmons of Swallow Rock also raises pigs and quite a few of the little, black heirloom creatures ended up on long tables where farmers, neighbours and members of the public shared company for a lazy, Sunday afternoon lunch.

This is not going to be a one-off event, so please watch out for more of 42 Bannerman’s farmers’ markets and lunches and make sure you get in early as they’re sure to sell out again quickly.

Moorlands Bio-Dynamic Lamb

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:18 by Unknown user

Moorlands Bio-Dynamic Lamb is a family run business.  Vince and Janet Heffernan and their two teenage children Jack and Casey run the 1100 hectare (2700 acre) farm situated just off the western edge of the Great Dividing Range around 250km south west of Sydney.

The farm has the classic appearance of the rolling hills dotted with trees familiar  to the nearby Goulburn region.  Vince’s great, great grandfather, Maurice Moore, purchased the land in the 1840′s shortly after the area was settled by Europeans.  Prior to this is was Pajong country, a small ‘nation’ wedged between the larger Ngunnawal and Wiradjuri nations.

Vince purchased the property from his father a decade ago when it was being run as a conventional sheep and cattle grazing property with a focus on wool production.  In the 1970′s it was the site of the first trials by Monsanto of a new chemical – Roundup.

The gift of a 1963 Penfolds Grange Hermitage from Janet’s parents sparked a thirst in Vince for a greater appreciation and understanding of fine wine.  And with wine goes food.  Many of the wine lovers Vince met were also foodies or chefs through whom he began to learn that good produce was often organic or bio-dynamic.  Riper, richer flavours, better keeping qualities, superior aroma and appearance were all elements he discovered.

Janet and Vince spent the next few years reading extensively, studying and growing organic produce.  When the opportunity arose to buy the family farm, the decision to go bio-dynamic was a no brainer.

Restoring and reestablishing original vital eco-systems was adopted and is still the central philosophy to the running of Moorlands today.  This “eco-centric” approach can be seen in any number of components of a holistic farm plan, including removal from production and protection of significant woodlands and native vegetation not only to enhance biodiversity but to create habitat and food for local animals, birds and fish.  Sensitive to the significant history of the land, the Heffernans have also rejuvenated an Aboriginal sacred birthing site.

Meanwhile, the working farm has been converted to a rotational grazing system that mimics nature allowing high density, short duration grazing with long rest periods.  This practice builds soil carbon, while favouring the growth of native perennial grasses, forbs and sedges, resulting in healthier soil and better water management.  Over 100,000 small native trees have been planted, having been propagated from seed by Janet.

Bio-dynamic farming is working with the rhythms of nature with an emphasis on growing healthy soil.  Within soil there are many thousands of species of tiny creatures, each with its own niche and role.  In a healthy soil this range is broad and diverse including fungi, bacteria, all three protozoa as well as nematods and bigger organisms like arthropods and earthworms.  Vince and Janet have learnt that a thorough understanding of soil ecology helps better manage it for maximum benefit.

In a nutshell, healthy alive soil means healthier plants.  Such plants make ideal nutritionally-dense food for the sheep that graze at Moorlands resulting in healthier animals.  Amongst other benefits of healthy stock, there is no need to vaccinate the sheep for disease as would be the case on conventional farms.

Moorlands is a sheep farm producing beautiful wool and superb sheep meat.  Genetically the Heffernan’s have opted for a Dutch breed, the Texel, which is slow to grow and mature compared to other commercial breeds, but the wait is worthwhile!  It’s superior eating with a sweet nutty fat and a richness almost cashew like.  Fine textured muscle, which is never coarse or ropey provides high yielding cuts with beautiful flavour.

janet and Vince also both trained in low stress stock handling techniques and every effort is made to keep happy animals : )

When asked what keeps them passionate about farming, the Heffernan’s explained that they believe everyone should have access to high quality, healthy food. They are opposed to the supermarket “food-as-fuel” mindset and intensive farming particularly of cheap protein.  They understand the growing desire for more direct farmer-to-sonsumer relationships in its many forms – coops, genuine farmers markets, provedore or speciality butchers – where a relationship with the farmer is possible.  That, and the sheer satisfaction of living in and helping restore some of Australia’s more beautiful landscapes……

Where to find Moorland products?

Home delivery via featherandbone.com.au

Cleavers butchers, Neutral Bay

Eveleigh & St Ives Farmers Markets

Or direct from the Hefernans –  a whole lamb cut to your specificationswww.moorlandslamb.com.au

La Tartine

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:17 by Unknown user

Food production has changed more in the last 50 years than in the previous 50,000.  The use of pesticides, herbicides and hormones in farming and the addition of flavourings, colourings and preservatives in processing have left us with many “products” masquerading as food on our supermarket shelves.

Located on the New South Wales Central Coast, La Tartine is a family owned and managed business baking traditional sour dough breads the way it’s been done for generations.  Using only organic flour, natural levener, filtered water and Guerande salt imported from France, Nick Anthony and his wife Laurence use traditional methods learnt while working at Laurence’s cousin’s bakery in Provincial France.

After 10 years and literally thousands of loaves, the Anthony’s returned to Sydney bringing with them a love for quality bread and expert knowledge.

With the introduction of commercially baked yeast breads, sour dough had lost its popularity.  Industrial baking methods promised shorter kneading and proving times, but creates an inferior tasting loaf which dries out quickly.  A loss of moisture results in a tough crust and harder interior, requiring preservatives and flavourings to compensate.  Other breads may have a longer shelf life but it does not possess the taste or crustiness of freshly baked sour dough loaf or baguette made from high quality ingredients.

Thanks to dedicated bakers like the Anthony’s, sour dough is returning to favour.  The distinct taste of sour dough is the result of lactic acid produced by bacteria fermenting in the dough.  During fermentation, carbon dioxide is also formed and trapped within tiny bubbles causing the dough to expand and rise.  Fermentation also breaks down proteins, making the bread more readily digestible while other acids formed during the process act as natural preservatives.

Along with the traditional unbleached baguette and oval campagne loaf, the team of bakers – now numbering six – offer an array of delicious multigrain, fruit, sesame and rye variations and are available in most organic stores in the Sydney area. La Tartine were also one of the founding stall holders at Pyrmont Markets and can still be found there on the first Saturday of each month as well as at Fox Studios every Wednesday, Redfern on Saturdays, Castle Hill 2nd Saturday, North Sydney the 3rd Saturday and Avoca 2nd Sunday of each month.

As pioneers of the sour dough bread industry in Australia, Nick and his brother Mark have spent many an hour enlightening market-goers on the finer taste and nutritious values of traditional breads.  They are happy to chat about process, ingredients and the best ways to enjoy…. soaked in fine olive oil, smothered in jam, with hunks of robust cheese, or delicately sliced for pate.

And remember, it’s perfectly acceptable to munch on that irresistible end of your baguette while finishing your shopping.  In fact, it’s expected!!

Willowbrae Chévre Cheese Farm

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:16 by Unknown user

Twelve years ago, with five acres in the Hawkesbury foothills, two goats and a book, Karen and David Borg swapped the corporate life for that of cheese maker and farmer.  At Willowbrae Chévre Cheese Farm, David now runs 100 goats and Karen makes enough fresh specialist cheeses to supply growers markets in and around Sydney.

I found Karen and her eldest daughter Kate where you’ll see them every Saturday, at the Eveleigh undercover markets in Darlington adjacent to CarriageWorks.  A fabulous display of curd cheeses, some freshly made the previous day, a few flavoured with tomato, olive or pepper, others marinated and some matured.  The newest treats on offer are lemon marinated chevre balls rolled in peppercorns. Sensational on a cheese board or tossed through salad.

Apart from wanting to leave her previous career in land development, Karen was attracted to the idea of raising goats for two main reasons, “Not only can you successfully run enough goats on a relatively small piece of farm land  - goats eat less and as browsers, occupy less grazing land than cows – there was also a noticeable shortage of goat’s cheese in the market and what was available, was imported and expensive”.

Although having been a huge fan of their cheese for a while now, I’d never had a nose for goat’s milk and assumed Willowbrae would have that typical strong musky taste.  But it was surprisingly sweet and fresh and without that twang you may expect.

“You need good quality goats to have good quality milk and cheese.  We are often told it is running the buck with the herd that will bring on the musky flavour but it’s actually all in the goat’s diet and how the milk is handled, such as keeping it chilled so that the relatively high omega 3 fatty acid content does not go rancid.”

“As browsers”, says Karen, “goats thrive on a varied diet and have an incredible ability to know what they need and where to find it.  As well as having access to grasses, branches, lucerne and meadow grasses hay and herbs, our neighbours have also taken to throwing fallen trees and clippings over the fence for them.  They especially like rose prunings and willow tree.”  However, there are some things, eucalyptus for example, they are not allowed for whatever they eat affects the flavour of their milk and therefore the cheese.

In Australia we may consider goat’s milk as an alternative to cow’s, but worldwide far more people drinks goat’s than cow’s milk.  Goat’s milk is believed to more be more easily digestible than cow’s milk.  It is naturally homogenised and therefore needs less processing, is higher in Omega 3 fatty acids and tends to be tolerated by those who react adversely to the highly processed cow’s milk.

When asked if Karen ever looks back and wonders how she came to be one of Sydney’s premier chévre cheese makers, she did admit she wonders “why” sometimes.  ”Being a farmer is a full-time, 365 days a year job.  There’s no taking the day off for Christmas, Easter for birthdays.  There’s no concept of leaving work at the end of the day for a farmer.”  Karen does however brighten again as she explains, “You have to have a passion for what you do”.  Judging by the end product, it is clear the Borg family is sincerely passionate about their goats and cheese making.

Willowbrae cheese and milk is available from the following markets

Every Saturday                        Organic Food Market, Lilyfield

Everleigh Markets, Darlington

1st Saturday of the month    SMH Produce Market, Pyrmont

2nd Saturday of the month  Hawkesbury Harvest Markets, Castle Hill

3rd Saturday of the month   Northside Produce Markets, North Sydney

Every Sunday                           French’s Forest Markets

1st Sunday of the month      Avoca Markets

2nd Sunday of the month    Blackheath Grower’s Market

Every Wednesday                  Fox Studio Markets, Moore Park

Rod Yates, Australian Honey

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:13 by Unknown user

Honey, a wonderfully rich golden liquid is the miraculous product of bees and a natural alternative to sugar as well as a useful antimicrobial agent and antioxidant.  Although it is available throughout the year, it is an exceptional treat in the summer and autumn when it has been harvested and often at its best.

It was as a young boy of 11 years that Rod Yates of Australian Honey first saw a bee hive… and he was hooked.  He can still recall the sound emanating from the rustic wooden boxed housed at the back of a neighbours’ property, “it vibrated and hummed like a jet engine”.  Rod believes that “all children are fascinated by nature and have an intrinsic understanding.”  Given the right exposure, they can develop an interest that lasts a lifetime.

Establishing the independent packing and distribution company, Australian Honey, was a natural progression for Rod whose journey includes forays into Accounting, Art Education, building the first mud brick house in NSW and completing a design degree at UTS.  he has also been keeping bees on and off for 49 years.

Bees are “flower constant” in that on any one foraging trip from the hive, they will only collect nectar from one type of plant and Rod’s bees have a penchant for Eucalyptus tree flowers. The different and distinctive honey varieties available in Australia are the result of migratory beekeeping.  Colonies of bees are moved by truck to locations where particular trees or plants are about to flower.  Sites are selected so that one particular species dominates the crop at that time.

As with all foods, flavour and health benefits depend on the integrity of producers, distributors and any processing.  Australian Honey packages and distributes honey from beekeepers along the east coast as far south as Tasmania to the northern tip of Queensland.

If you have ever had the privilege to enjoy a honey tasting, you will appreciate the vast array of flavours available in Australia.  None of Rod’s honey is too sweet and never bland.  Varieties include the light golden and subtle flavoured White Box, smokey Mallee, the exotically full flavoured and dark hued Leatherwood.  Yellow Box drizzled on baguette instantly conjures memories of childhood.

But why don’t we see these gourmet honeys in our supermarkets?  ”For whatever reason, major honey packers and retailers in Australia believe they need to manufacture a product with an consistent taste”, an attitude knows as the ‘McDonald’s factor’.  To achieve this, bland varieties are blended and often diluted with other substances.

Competing with inferior cheaply made products leaves beekeepers turning to international markets where honey varieties are prized and where producers can obtain a fair price for what is undoubtedly an arduous labor of love.

Rod Yates recognises the Australia has superior honey for which there is great international demand.  he would also like to see Australians enjoy locally made, sustainable, clean and delicious honey, “I would love to introduce Australians to the complexities of the various flavours of honey and show them the many ways of enjoying it” – as a marinade for meats and fish, used in place of sugar when baking, served with cheese.  One of Rod’s particular favourites is honey ice-cream although a spoon dripping in Leatherwood honey and dipped into thick double cream is a taste sensation!


Jean-Paul Bruneteau

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:10 by Unknown user   [ updated 1 Jan 2011 19:12 ]

Jean-Paul Bruneteau is a French-born Australian chef with a passion for Australian native foods.  He has made it his specialty to feature the unique flavours of bush foods in his cooking, often developing new methods of working with these unique ingredients.  In 1996 he published Tukka, Real Australian Food to share his passion with a wider audience.

Jean-Paul has owned and run restaurants in Sydney and Paris.

I became passionate about Australian native foods by… discovering how beautiful these flavours were.  I found it impossible to understand why modern day Australians could have passed up such ingredients in the quest to create a genuine Australian cuisine. By unlocking all the secrets these wonderful indigenous foods offered, I also gained a better understanding of Aboriginal Australia.

The food I prepare is different from that of other chefs because… back in the eighties when I started to experiment with a lot of these native foods, I soon learned that these were not ‘European vegetables’.  Their cooking and handling were startlingly different.  This is why I became so besotted with their preparation, to make them more acceptable to gastronomy.

Some of the flavours were so strong; I also understood straight away that people would mishandle a lot of these plants unless I set out to explain how to best handle these wonderful flavours.  That’s why I felt I needed to write my book, TUKKA, Real Australian Food.

I’d recommend anyone in Sydney to grow and eat… the Riberry – Syzygium luehmannii, or a Brown Pine Plum tree, also known as a Podocarpus – Podocarpus elatus, or a Lemon Myrtle –Bakhousia citrodoraThese three trees are good ornamentals and will provide an abundance of fruits and flavours for a lifetime; they don’t even need to be watered, or very little.

There’s a whole lot of stuff that’s easy to grow, and that quite naturally doesn’t need much maintenance and especially no pesticide as a general rule.

Tetragon spinach is another one that is easily propagated – sometimes called Warrigal Greens, Botany Bay spinach or New Zealand Spinach, Kokihi in Maori language, its Botanical name isTetragonia tetragonioidesThe seeds are often available in seed shops.

The most satisfying thing about working with Australian native foods is… to have the ability to create whole menus around them and be able to match them with wine and other ingredients like cheese for example. The other as we were just saying is to grow them, even just in pots.  It’s worth it.

Native foods have been good to me as they have taken me around the planet a few times. Discovering, or should I say, having been introduced to their existence by the Aboriginal people, I guess I was fortunate to be able to popularize them to a wider audience.

My biggest frustration in working with Australian native foods is… the charlatans who have been getting on the band wagon for a fast buck, or the ones who have mishandled their culinary use, and as a result, put off quite a few Australians and others who, had they been properly instructed, would have fallen in love like I did.

Greed has been a factor in the emerging industry. Misunderstanding and misconception of Kangaroo and Emu is also an on-going frustration of mine.

The best meal I’ve eaten this year was… almost certainly at Bodega restaurant in Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills. I just love the Tapas Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz put out.  Lots of brilliant flavours and lots of garlic! And wonderful Spanish reds which I love so much. I really can’t think of just one dish that has blown my mind – there are several I have liked.  I’m also a regular at Thai Nesia in Darlinghurst for Billy’s ‘Holy Basil Crispy Salmon’. It’s amazing, like the rest of his dishes.

In the top end of things, this year nothing! If I see another foam, spit, frog froth or call it what you like on my plate, I am going to scream!  And no… you do not turn crayfish or other expensive items into custard and charge a hundred bucks for it and call it Modern Australian Cuisine!  Or serve a square inch of pork belly for the price of a whole pig – that’s obscene.

Australian menus are all out of whack, trying too hard to be something they’re not.  Stick to basic wholesome food and there you will have it. It doesn’t take molecular energy to create a good meal.

My most treasured food memory is… a lemon sole I had in Zeebrudge in Belgium many moons ago.  It was by far the nicest piece of fish I have ever eaten.  It really did change my life.

Another was a Coquille St Jacques (Scallops) Feuilleté where when my fork hit the six centimeter stack of the best puff pastry I have ever eaten, the whole pile fell like a house of cards.  I have never worked out how they got it onto my plate, to me, out of the oven without the thing flying off, it was absolutely amazing!  This was in The French Basque country in the town of Saint Jean De Pied-de-Port at ‘Hotel des Pyrenees’.

Slow Foodies should check out… early issues of Slow Food, a prized treasure on my bookshelves, alongside another collection called “Convivium: The Journal of Good Eating”.  ‘A Continuous Picnic’ is another good read.

The most important thing about the sustainable food movement is… to educate Gen-Y on the importance of eating healthy, unadulterated foods and on how to prepare these foods so we at least can keep a tradition which otherwise will fast slip out of our fingers.

Slow Foodies can make food in Sydney better, cleaner and fairer by… identifying organic food as ‘clean food’ and move into certifying it as ‘Slow Food’ approved. It would be nice to see a tag or a label to identify products like native food products as ‘Slow Food’ family friendly, to make it easier for people to choose well.

Miriam Neilson, Pasture Perfect Organic Pork

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:08 by Unknown user   [ updated 1 Jan 2011 19:09 ]

Jack and Miriam Neilson own and run Pasture Perfect Organic Pork, raising 100% free-range Berkshire pigs on their certified organic property in northern NSW.  Their products are carried by several Sydney retailers, listed here.


We decided to grow free-range, organic pork because… we had a bit of an epiphany while we were travelling in South America.

We had been fattening cattle in central Queensland, and had decided to stop using chemicals because we were both having bad reactions to them.  Then the property was sold, so we took some time out to travel.  While we were in South America, we realised how badly we’d been eating – suddenly there was all this great fresh food in the markets, and we were eating so well, but also losing weight.

At the time no-one knew their producers in Australia.  There were no farmers’ markets like today.  We wanted to bring that connection back with us – great food, produced ethically.  We figured beef production was already pretty good, as most cattle in Australia are still grass fed, but we thought there was an opportunity with organic, free range pigs.

Pasture Perfect Organic Pork is different from supermarket pork because… our pigs always have access to pasture; they are totally free of chemicals, including antibiotics and even vaccines; and they’re Berkshires, which means they have great flavour.

Demand in the current economic environment is… holding up ok.  We’re not seeing a downturn due to economic circumstances, but we haven’t yet got up to full production.

The most satisfying thing about raising free range, organic pork is… getting out and spending time with the animals.  It’s like watching little kids playing – they’ll run around in circles in the grass, sometimes so hard they lose their balance and fall over.  Then they’ll look around to see if anyone saw them.  I’d describe it as joyous.  They really love being out in the pasture.

The most frustrating thing is… finding business partners who share our passion for making great product every time.  Our cured products are made without preservatives, and it’s our name on them, so getting it wrong could be the end of the business for us. It’s been a long battle to find a processor who really cares.

The best meal I’ve had this year was… a producers’ lunch at Universal with Christine Manfield.  There were producers from all over Australia, as well as top chefs and wine people.  The degustation and matched wines were beautiful.  I felt really blessed to be part of it – we don’t often get to experience fine dining, given where we live.

My most treasured food memory is… really more a set of memories.  I learned to cook by bringing a new flavour back into the kitchen and trying to recreate it from smell and taste, using the herbs and spices on hand, rather than by following recipes.

Slow Foodies should check out… The Weston A Price Foundation and their book, Nourishing Traditions.  It has some great information on how modern conveniences have undermined traditional health and cooking.

The one thing Slow Foodies can do to make food in Sydney better, cleaner and fairer is… to get to know how your food is produced.  As soon as we start closing our eyes, we start running into problems.  Seek out good food, and savour it – really appreciate it!

Craig Macindoe

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:06 by Unknown user

Craig Macindoe is head chef and owner of MuMu Grill in Crows Nest.  MuMu has a strong focus on sustainable produce, and specialises in grass-fed beef.  You can keep up with Craig in MuMuLand, or by following him on Twitter.

I decided to focus on local producers… in the beginning as a way to differentiate our business from others. I wanted also to create a future based business, something that would be relevant for the near, to medium future. But it has since grown into a personal passion.

Originally, I looked into grass fed beef led by Vicki Poulter (a friend and Weston Price devotee). I thought I would try grass fed beef and see what she was talking about. After tasting the beef I was sold, this was going to be our point of difference – 100% grass fed beef. All the rest of the menu has evolved around that.

While devoting our menu to sustainability I learnt more about the “Facts”:

Fact 1. Ruminants that live of grass are healthier and they produce far healthier beef. High omega 3 fatty acids, high concentrations of CLAs, high concentration of good fats.

Fact 2. Sustainable farming produces better flavoured animals.

Fact 3. Sustainable farming keeps boutique farmers and farm families alive.

It has been an interesting road talking to the farmers and getting to know the difficulties they face as well as sharing in their passion for the food they produce.

When we first opened the restaurant we were getting the vast majority of our product from distributors but over time we have managed to deal directly with the producers. It has meant we have had to change things we do but it is worth it to get the quality and the affordability we require.

Our food is different because we don’t muck around with it too much. We focus on simple food, sourced from producers who practise sustainable farming.

Our food is different because… we don’t muck around with it too much. We buy top quality product and we treat it simply. We focus on simple food, sourced from producers who practise sustainable farming. We serve a lot of slow cooked meals, allowing the food to maintain nutritional integrity and also have magic flavour.

Also our food is by nature healthier for the customer.

Demand in the current economic climate is… soft.  I would say that we are trading well under what I would have expected for our 2nd year. We are growing, so that is a positive, but the overall demand is soft. I am not complaining – we just have to work harder for our clients. I would say that having sustainability as our point of difference has kept our business growing in these difficult times.

The most satisfying thing about sourcing, preparing and serving local food is… the interaction with the producers. I love speaking to the people at the fruit and veg markets about their farms or hearing about what’s going on down at Arcadia salt bush lamb.

The biggest frustration about the restaurant business is… staff who sometimes don’t share your passion. But having said that, staff are also some of the best things about the restaurant business.

The best meal I’ve eaten this year was… at Meadowbank winery in Tasmania. We ate the entire menu. On the menu all the food has food miles which is a great idea. It may have had something to do with all their wine we consumed, or how friendly the staff were. It was truly a memorable experience.

My most treasured food/wine memory is… eating in “Signore” on the banks of the Largo De Garda in Italy in the town of Sirmione. This was on my honeymoon so perhaps I feel a natural love of this meal…  Jamon Iberico de Bellota every where in Spain…  A 7 course meal I ate in a great restaurant in Parma…  The first time we ate at Café de Stasio…  1969 Bollinger RD at my mate’s 21st…  Cheese eaten from the back of the car at Portsea when we had just bought it in Millawa… Scallop pies in Tasmania… Lobster spaghetti in Mondelo…  There are so many treasured food and wine memories!

Slow Foodies should check out… www.themeatrix.com

The most important thing about the sustainable food movement is… that it generates and releases information to combat the lies that are told about the food most people eat. Most of the world’s problems would be solved if people spent time creating food from scratch, with love: Less obesity, more focus on family, less exposure to processed foods, less illness.

Most of the world’s problems would be solved if people spent time creating food from scratch, with love.

If Slow Food members could do one thing to make food and wine in Sydney better, cleaner and fairer, it would be to… support the businesses that are sending out the ideals of Slow Food.

Rod Windrim, Krinklewood Wines

posted 1 Jan 2011 19:04 by Unknown user

Krinklewood vineyard is a family-owned, biodynamic vineyard, in which every member of the family contributes to the daily operations of the business. Rod and Suzanne Windrim first planted wine grapes in 1981 in the Hunter Valley. In 1997 they increased the vineyard to 48 acres in the Broke-Fordwich region, where they grow Semillon, Chardonnay, Verdelho and Shiraz, with younger plantings including Viognier, Mourvédre and Tempranillo.

I decided to grow and make biodynamic wine because… I wanted to make the best possible wine from Krinklewood. I was inspired by vineyards in Burgundy that were using biodynamic principles to grow grapes; in France they have a higher disease pressure than in the Hunter, which gave me even more confidence. In 2001 I discovered ‘Wine From the Sky’, a book by Nicholas Joly which sparked me to do a Steiner Agricultural course that same year. From that moment, I was absolutely hooked on Biodynamics, and in 2002 I began operating within the biodynamic cycle and using the biodynamic preparations.

Biodynamic practice is better for the environment, better for the people who live on and work on the property, and can give us better quality wine that truly reflects the terroir of the vineyard. It didn’t really take much convincing…

“Biodynamic practice is better for the environment, better for the people who live on and work on the property, and can give us better quality wine that truly reflects the terroir of the vineyard”


Krinklewood wine is different from the mass-produced wine you might find in a bottle shop because… 
no chemicals are used in the vineyard to grow the grapes. Biodynamics also allows the wines to express the uniqueness of the vineyard site, known as terroir.

Demand for Krinklewood wine in the current economic climate is… very strong. In the past few years some of our wines have been selling out before the next vintage is available for sale which we feel good and bad about – good that the wines are in demand, bad that we are unable to produce enough.

The most satisfying thing about producing wine is… working biodynamically. It is extremely motivating and addictive. It has allowed us to be almost totally self-sustaining and as a result our farm has healthy soil, plants and animals – which is without doubt reflected in the quality of our wines.  Viticulture is an ongoing learning process, as is winemaking. The more you know the more you want to know!

The biggest frustration in producing wine is… not being in control of the weather!

The best meal I’ve eaten this year was… with a bunch of like-minded winos, hell-bent on having a laugh and enjoying some great wines. We were at Lolli Redini Restaurant in Orange, and I had the roasted Dutton Park duck with Sicilian vegetable caponata, crisped truffle Parmesan polenta and glazed quince. It was fantastic !

My most treasured food/wine memory is… enjoying a roast chicken dish for a Sunday lunch in Chez Blanc in Borg-en- Bresse in France. It was a wonderful restaurant and after reading about their free range chicken for so long, it was great to finally experience it.

“Bresse chickens are treated like fine wine. They have an appellation, a particular place where they come from, and they are a particular breed. Plus, they get to eat real food and walk around the countryside, all regulated by law.”

“Bresse chickens are treated like fine wine. They have an appellation, a particular place where they come from, and they are a particular breed. Plus, they get to eat real food and walk around the countryside, all regulated by law.”


Slow Foodies should check out… Wine from the Sky by Nicholas Joly, and the following websites:

www.krinklewood.com

www.biodynamics.net.au

www.biodynamics2024.com.au

The most important thing about the sustainable food movement is… not only sustainable food that is important, but that food must also be nutritionally enriching, i.e., to be sustainable is not enough if the food is not nutritionally beneficial.

To make food and wine in Sydney better, cleaner and fairer, Slow Food members should…support certified growers at farmers’ markets and genuine certified food and wines. Restaurants could also give better support to certified organic and biodynamic food and wines.

“Support certified growers at farmers’ markets and genuine certified food and wines.”

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